Jonathan Gold: Westside dim sum no match for the San Gabriel Valley

When a reader asked about the quality of dim sum in West Los Angeles, Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic Jonathan Gold left no doubt as to his opinion. 

"You're asking me, I think, to reassure you that dim sum at Palace and the like is equivalent to dim sum in the San Gabriel Valley, and it just isn't," wrote Gold in the L.A. Times last week. "In the best-case scenario, it is like listening to Beethoven on a scratchy transistor radio — you can kind of make out the tune, but the music doesn't make it through the speakers."

Gold went on to argue that when a Hong Kong-style restaurant does open on the Westside, it quickly becomes mediocre. "There are several theories about this," Gold said, "some theorizing that Westside restaurants find it difficult to build up the kind of banquet business necessary to support an ambitious kitchen, others about the culture clash between customers accustomed to having food served their way and chefs who reluctantly accommodate them, but the result is the same: mediocre cooking."

Do you agree with Gold's theory? Have you found any places on the Westside that match the dim sum quality here in the SGV?

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