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Looks fusion, cooks orthodox, or Dip's Grill in Alhambra

Jonathan Gold is surprised to find quality Asian fusion cuisine — on the east side. "The spring roll resembles a dish from the nem parlors, a rice-paper wrap stuffed with herbs, grilled meat, rice vermicelli and a smaller fried spring roll; the chicken in the Hainan chicken rice is tossed with chopped rau ram leaves and a tart dressing," Gold writes. "And surprisingly enough, it's all kind of good — good enough that you can eat an entire meal here without even thinking about the proximity of the beef rolls at Noodle 101 Express next door."

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